Shaking Things Up

JW,

I've always been suspicious of the restaurant chain Steak 'n Shake, a flawless recreation of 1950s diners if 1950s diners had only existed in hell. A marketing gimmick with no proper sense of itself--too slow to be fast-food; too fast to be casual dining--Steak is one of those in-between places that gets my order wrong while charging me two bucks more than the joints you'd expect it from. And while the story I'm about to tell you isn't based entirely in this country's educational problems or the lapse in its basic etiquette, it's certainly illustrative of both.

Rolling through the drive-thru of my local franchise (yes, I eat at places I hate; everyone does), I arrive at the window and receive my bag of food. Now, at most places, I'd allow the car to drift slowly forward while I check my order for precision, but I know that at Steak 'n Shake, it's fifteen minutes if I have to go back through the line, twenty if I go inside. Sitting in place and pulling open the sack, windows down, I hear commotion coming from the kitchen. There's been a mix-up, it seems, and I've been given the wrong bag. Just as I'm about to discover this fact for myself, a booming voice from inside the window shouts a question that most drive-thru workers only dream about: "What the f--k you ohhh-dah?" Stunned, I turn to find myself face to face with a very close relative of Thea Vidale, from the long-defunct TV series that bore her name. And she's pissed. And she snatches the bag out of my hand. She even announces it: "Gimme that bag!" Terrified, I hand it over.

In the end, I finally got my food--a large chili and a cherry coke. It wasn't bad, actually. What's bad is that I've come to expect incompetence and meanness in 75% of my public transactions. As I've said many times before, thank God I'm a blogger.

-GM

GM,

You know, you've told me the "gimme that bag" story a few times in person, and I've always mistaken the lady's impatience for urban amiability. Perhaps you need to work on your impressions. Yes, fast-food joints displease me with great regularity--while still managing to reduce my regularity. With whom should we be more comfortable, though? A McDonald's worker who satisfies every realistic expectation by not smiling, not making eye contact, and not arriving to the cash register within three minutes of my own arrival, or an overzealous Chick-Fil-A employee who seems to care way too much about how I'm doing that day?! I prefer the latter, but some people are overwhelmed by the unexpected friendliness, and it seems like they up their game every time I come in!

Can't we just acknowledge that the ordering, eating, and digesting of any fast-food meal will be a neutral experience at best and then mold the structure of social interaction accordingly? In McDonald's's case, vending machines would do nicely. Don't tell me the technology's not there. Then only one person in the whole operation would have to know how to read and speak English. If they're out of double cheeseburgers, the process is simple. I press the button anyway, and the genius of the bunch translates the order to the automatons. Next thing I know--assuming I don't know anything for 12 minutes--my burgers come sliding down a shoot into a vending machine that sits next to the Redbox outside the store. With that system, I wouldn't have to talk to, look at, feel sorry for, or be annoyed by any of the employees.

As for Steak 'n Shake, I haven't been there in years, but it seems like the drive-thru would be the worst way to capture the experience. I thought the whole purpose of '50s diners was to hang out for three hours after you ate. Think about that next time you're placing an "ohhh-dah."

-JW